Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo

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Hello friends.

I know that I was too much time in silence but was because a good reason. i was making the new FAQ2. And now that it is ready and printed, I can back again to apint models. I have some different projects in my workbench and one of them is this little Tiger I out of box that I build time ago. Now I ampainting it in winter camo, using the Chipping fluid (the soft one) to make the chipping. I will try to post the whole step by step so stay tunned.



First I painted the dark yellow, just plane without modulation or other effects.

The worn effects fluid was applied inmediatly after the base color and once it is dry I painted the other two color camo with an airbursh.

I used a small plain brush to humidify the surface and scratch the camo colors. The zimmerit texture helped me in this task.

Now I have ready the base for the second step: the winter was , also very damaged. Ahh, right now we must apply a satin varnish coat to protect the preview work.

In the next chapter I will explain the winter wash camo step by step.

Thank you for watching.

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HAIRSPRAY TECHNIQUE, Vol.1

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Yes, one more time we must talk about hairspray technique, developed by Philip Stutcinskas long time ago and now pushed by Mike Rinaldi in his last models. In fact I was in touch with Mike long time ago in a way to improve my weak style with such technique. In the begining is not easy, and is hard to understand the whole concept. And even he still improving this method, testing and thinking about new aplications. But waht Mike say in few words is that the 3 basic points where we must base this technique is:

• hair spray quantity
• opacity of top layer of paint
• drying time of hair spray & paint

Now that I have a little more time, I want to go for this great technique and let me share with you some step by steps. Some months ago, I tried the basic way, that is Hairpray over an acrylic base color, like Tamiya or similar, and the second coat also acrylic, but using Life Color for that purpouse. My Sdkfz 222 was painted in that way. But, reciently I am trying with a hard and strong base color with humbrol enamels or Gaianotes laquer paints. My 1/16 King Tiger used this method:

To make this effect is so easy in 1/16, almost a natural and real way for chipping. The base color is Gaianotes, representing the Red Primer. The Gren color and Dark Yellow is Life color, and it represent the poor quality camo applied very fast in the last days in WWII.

Now, let's go to see the step by step in my "MIA" Sdkfz 222, painted with Tamiya and life color:

We can put the Hairspray liquid into a small jar for a easy use of it, applied with an airbrush. This is good in small scales.

When it is dry, we can apply the life color coat. Don't make it too thick, specially in very worn and faded vehciles, like Africa or Winter camos.

Then, we can apply a little water on the surface and start removing the last coat of dark yellow. We can use a fine brush for this task.

We must control very well in a way to avoid ugly chips or too big or too regular. They must be random and logical.

I recomend you combine this technqiiue with teh classic ones, because the Hairspray technique is good for a kind of chips , but not for faded effects. Use dry brush and a old brush to make this effect.

Finally, apply a varnish coat to the whole vehicle to protect the fragil base color. I used a soft coat of Tamiya Glossy varnish.


And finally the decals, transfers or wet transfers. FOX offer wet transfers, in my opinion the best way, because hve the good things from transfers and decals.

Well, this is just a frist aproach to this technique, but I will continue with it in the next months, specially in winter vehicles. I must practice more by my self, specially after my long stage without modelling, but you can follow the works from the two excellent modellers mentioned above.

To be continued...

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