Pasdaran "Army of the Guardians of the Islamic Revolution" Type 69 II C, Iran.

        After a while in dry dock, I finished one of my favorite subjects, a Type 69 II C of the Hezbollah gorups in Iaran-Iraq war in the 80's. This Type 69 was captured to Iraqui forces and repainted with new numbers and the Hezbollah simbol, together with the red bands of identification. I must give thanks to my friend Charlie Pritchett, an expert in Irani forces and everything related to Iran-Iraq war. He finished this master for Verlinden Productions in cooperation with Andy Taylor (UK). They and more people involved in this neverend project made a great job, and now I was able to enjoy it. I hope you like it. This is so far, my favorite tank in all my life.

In 1994 I made my frist Type 69 II C, based in a old kit of an iraqui T55 from Verlinden. In that time I was not able to find too many info and ofc ourse, internet doens't exist. My money to buy books doens't exist!! So, I took a little info form a friend's book. I made many pieces by scratch and with a lot of imagination. If some  one doens't know how was my origen in the modelling carrier...this was the begining of my history. I published this model for for first time in my life in a magazine, 18 years ago, in Todo Modelismo magazine, Spain. This was only the first of more than hundries of articles in 18 different lenguages in the whole world...until now. Almost 2 decades later, I made this tribute to my origen, when I was just a young boy who never thought about to be in the modelling industry. You are dreaming now with to have your own future in the modelling....just do it. Now is time to start because the future is full of surprises and positive things. Good luck!
Thank you
Mig Jimenez
Some photo references for stowage (just a small example)


Painting a Tiger I 1/24th scale by Mig Jimenez. Part 1

hello friends. Afetr a long time in silence due my work task, I am able to share with you this home made video where I show how to paint a 1/24th Tiger I from the begining to the ned. of course it will be divided in chapters and this one is about the base color and camouflage. I hope you enjoy it.

Thank you for watching.

Mig Jimenez


Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 5" THE END

Finally the model is finished. After add the mud and other small effects, it is ready in case we want to make a small diorama.Is very important to see the nice effect made by the acumulated earth in the horizontal surface in the upper hull. It help to create contrast and bring down the excesive white brightness.

Ok, let's go to finish the model. Some steps before. use a graphite pencil to make the metal effect in the MG ring. This useful tool can help us to give a metal look to many details. Keep it sharp.

The different tools was painted using Vallejo colors. Paint some shadows and some highlights to create a volume in the tools and accesories. You can add some dust effects with pigments or washes to adapt the tools to the rest of the weathered vehicle.

The fire extinguiser is really small. But I was able to paint a mini label with a fine brush and vallejo colors. Also I painted it with Dark Yellow, like the old one was remplaced by a new one.

The general look of the tools is good enought for this scale.

now is time to make the dust, earth and mud. This time, I have return to my old technque of pigments, but this time with the new AK pigments, which is a bit different than my old ones. The colors is also differnet. I was tired of the same shades so, the new ones are more ...neutral, less bright. Here you can find the whole range, limited, which means that it is the whole collection, just the basic stuff to avoid get crazy looking among 1 million colors. Now than the actual techniques is not only based in pigments, could be a good alternative these colors if we want to something ocasional, like in my case right now.

You can use the Pigment fixer or just White Spirit to fix the pigments. if you are not sure how will be the look, try frist the White Spirit and later the Fixer Glue. Pigments fixed with White Spirit can be removed more or less easily. Apply the different shades of pigments and then, use a brush with Fixer to humidify the surface.

Try to concentrate the dust around the details and use dar colors for the most hiden areas, around the details or turret, etc...
When it is dry, the look will be like this one. You can repeat the process as much as you want to increase the effect of acumulated earth or dust.

And now we will amke the mud with the actual method, using the enamel products from AK and plaster. Even if the Fresh Mud color is a bit satin, we can add Wet Effect Fluid to the mix to get a more shiny effect in the mud. Use an old brush to make the mix.

Low density mix of mud, this means, with more Enamel color and less plaster, will provide us smaller dots of mud when we make of splashed mud. Use an airbrush to project air over the brush loaded of mud mix. It will generate a nice splash over the front hull.

Use the same mix to apply mud in the tracks.

And after it is dry, apply the Dark Steel pigment to create the metal effect in the external parts fo the links. If it is not enought shiny, you always can mix this powder with Humbrol 11 (silver) and apply the mix with dry brush over the surface.

Well, the model is finished. We can add stowage or more details if we want , but I prefer to leave it clean of stuff to allow see the effects over the model.

I hope you have enjoy this big step by step. remeber that you have another 4 chapters explaining the whole process since the begining. if you have any doubt or comment, please, feel free to post here. Thank you very much for watching!

Mig Jimenez



Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 4" LINKS

Let's go to paint the spare links today.
Use tape to keep the links in position to be painted with Airbrush. Use a dark brown color, Tamiya or Mr Hobby could be perfect. Then, using the range of Lifecolor to make rust, paint different shades in some links.

As soon as it is dry, apply a coat of Worn Effects to create small chips.

Now apply the white color, Tamiya one mixed with a 40% of Gaianaotes lacquer thinner. Don't apply a heavy coat, just a little soft. With heavy coats is more diffciult to create small chipping.

After you paint it, use water and a flat hard brush to remove part of the white paint. before, you made humidify the surface with a little water, and wait few seconds until the white paint get fragil and ready to work.

Now glue the links to the turret with Super Glue. the rest of the weathering will be done with them in place.

use differnet shades of washes and Streaking grime colors and repeat the same proces like in the rest of the tank, but less intense.

You can repaint some chips if you don't like too much the look. Also, you can add some Streaking Rust and finally some highlight with white oil to refoirce the contrast.

With few steps the look is very realistic. Not needed too much steps and could be more than anought for a scale like 1/48 or 1/35.

Compare the size of the spare links with my fingers....

...and see how effective can be this technique in a close view.

Do you like it? I hope. The next chapter will be the last one for sure. Just mud and dust and final touches. But I thought that this subject deserved a chapter for it self.

Thank you very much one more time for follow this blog.