98% FINISHED KING TIGER
Fianlly I am able to show you the finished King Tiger. After two months work, the cat is almost done. I must add small details but the general look is almost finished. It is a Radio Control tank for a collector, so...many details was avoided, and others was impossible to add, but I am happy with the result.
The big size made this task a bit complicated to me, used to 1/72, 1/48 and 1/35...it is too big and need a lot of time for each process or step. Sometimes you get tired to paint chips or effects in all surface...but...this is the 1/16 scale.
Well, so..it is almost the end and I must go for my KVII, also in 1/16.
Thank you guys and I hope you like it.
Yes, I say Missing In Action projects and not unfinished projetcs, and it is because the next projects was missing for many reasons. Many people have email me asking about my Missing Sdkfz 221, which was...destroyed. So, I was thinking the last days about all projects that I started and that I was not able to finish, mainly because is not with me anymore. Some of them was part of my best projetcs, like my LVTP 5, which was 100% finished ready to paint...or a Koeningsberg scrap yard diorama in 1/72 th scale...or a K.O. T34 for a diorama with a PzIV. All of this never will be end even if it is a big pain to me, specially the 221 and the LVTP 5 , because it was specially dedicated to David Harper. About this one, I am only few pictures of the frist step by step...but it was ready and primed for paint, and even a nice base was made for it.
Well, if I try to restart my self in the modelling, I want to make a tribute to these models that I never will finish. I am very sorry, but...it is collaterle damage in my life. From this page, I say rest in pace to these models, which was part of me. Ok, also was my fault because I not finished them on time but now is too late for regreats.
Opss....ok, this 1/48 Tiger is the only one which I still have. But I will repaint it.
PAINTING A CIVIL VEHICLE
Just today I got an email from a friend (Jon Greenwood) asking me about how to paint a yellow vehicle, because he is making a diorama. He was asking me about my Wheel Loader, the one which I painted a couple years ago for my ex-company Mig productions. I made a nice Step by step of this original vehicle, longer than the one that I show here, but it never was published in any magazine. I expeted to make a cool diorama than Jenny (Aussine famous girl :-) suggested me long time ago. Even she sent me a lot of stuff to make it, but finally....that project was impossible to me. Fortunatly I still storing the pictures, so...I can make a small article for Jon and for all who can be useful, of course.
To paint a civil vehcile is not too different than to paint a tank. Except if the base color is GLOSSY, we can apply the rest of techniques in the same way than in amilitary vehicle. It also works with RED cranes or trucks, blue cars or vans, and much more...specially if the vehicle color is FLAT, like with a faded or very worn look. This is the case of this civil wheel loader.
It supposed to be in Iraq or any Middle east scenary, so I painted like with dry mud:
I painted the base color with HUMBROL ENAMELS, because this kind of paint is stronger than acrylic when you need to cover a big surface with a light color, like white or yellow. But you can use acrylics too. Try to paint the different components and panels with different shades of colors. This is very important!!:
CHIPPING: Use a fine rbush to paint the frist chips, using an Acrylic light yellow:
SPONGE CHIPPPING AND RUST STAINS
I want continue adding some of the basic techniques to create a kind of librery or archive in a way to compilate the basic stuff but with a updated look. Now is time for another easy technique but which can offer us a nice result in all "old look" vehicles.
First, take a sponge, like the ones used for electronic componets packaging. Use just a piece of it to handle with your fingers, like I show in my photo:
Use a very dark brown color. Must be acrylic and if it is a bit satin, much better! Press down with your sponge over the color (withut any water added) and remove the excess of paint pressing the sponge over a paper tissue or cotton piece.
Press the sponge over all surfaces, specially hatches, details, rivets, hocks, corners... Do it in a random way.
And above, the final look. Of course, in a 1/16th scale is easier, and the look more realistic, but you can use this technique in 1/35th scale too, even in 1/48. You can combine the sponge chips with another chips painted with the same color but using afine brush.
Let's go now for rust stains, usually visible close to big chip areas. This time, we must use a red-orange oil color, like a light rust color. The contrast with the very dark chips will make it more realistic.
Using a small rounded brush, paint fine and vertical lines close to the big chipping areas. Do it again randomly. Some of the satins must be longer trhan others. Make small groups and place anothers in farest areas. Take care, don't over do it!
Now, using a plain brusgh type, stump the oil color with clean turpentine. Don't add too much turpentine to the brush or you will remove all oil stains. This process need a little practice, but afer stump 5 or 6 lines, you will find that it is not too complicated.
Some examples of the finished process. This chipping method is fast and very effective, specially if we are running out of time or if we need to cover big surfaces, as a big armored train, a militrary trailer or stuff like that.
I needed 4 days to cover all my 1/16 King Tiger.... but I was happy with the result.
Thank you for read this and more techniques coming soon.
Post your comments with questions or opinions here or even adding information to help others, please.
HAIRSPRAY TECHNIQUE, Vol.1
Yes, one more time we must talk about hairspray technique, developed by Philip Stutcinskas long time ago and now pushed by Mike Rinaldi in his last models. In fact I was in touch with Mike long time ago in a way to improve my weak style with such technique. In the begining is not easy, and is hard to understand the whole concept. And even he still improving this method, testing and thinking about new aplications. But waht Mike say in few words is that the 3 basic points where we must base this technique is:
• hair spray quantity
• opacity of top layer of paint
• drying time of hair spray & paint
Now that I have a little more time, I want to go for this great technique and let me share with you some step by steps. Some months ago, I tried the basic way, that is Hairpray over an acrylic base color, like Tamiya or similar, and the second coat also acrylic, but using Life Color for that purpouse. My Sdkfz 222 was painted in that way. But, reciently I am trying with a hard and strong base color with humbrol enamels or Gaianotes laquer paints. My 1/16 King Tiger used this method:
To make this effect is so easy in 1/16, almost a natural and real way for chipping. The base color is Gaianotes, representing the Red Primer. The Gren color and Dark Yellow is Life color, and it represent the poor quality camo applied very fast in the last days in WWII.
Now, let's go to see the step by step in my "MIA" Sdkfz 222, painted with Tamiya and life color:
We can put the Hairspray liquid into a small jar for a easy use of it, applied with an airbrush. This is good in small scales.
When it is dry, we can apply the life color coat. Don't make it too thick, specially in very worn and faded vehciles, like Africa or Winter camos.
Then, we can apply a little water on the surface and start removing the last coat of dark yellow. We can use a fine brush for this task.
I recomend you combine this technqiiue with teh classic ones, because the Hairspray technique is good for a kind of chips , but not for faded effects. Use dry brush and a old brush to make this effect.
And finally the decals, transfers or wet transfers. FOX offer wet transfers, in my opinion the best way, because hve the good things from transfers and decals.