9/10/2013

70 years of Kursk Battle.

Many years ago I made an attemp to make this original Ferdinand, but due my passed experiences I lost my first Ferdinand and I was not able to finish it. Fortunatly I was able to save the decals that a Japanese firend made for me, so, I was able to make again anew Ferdinand using the same decals. In fact, these russian text is the difficult part of this project. Jindra, my very close friend from Chezc Republic made the corrections of that text. I finished this new ferdinand just yesterday, specially for a Mexican event in next October 2013. It will be published also in the Weathering Magazine in the Kursk Issue. I hope you like it.


In the next comparative photo, you can see some diferences between my model and the original one. For example, I was not able to discover what is that rare light color lines in the rear hull, because in another photo of the same vehicle these lines are not visible. Also I added the Arial Antena....a bit damage. Even if the real one haven't the antena, I wanted to add this details to give to the model more volume and small details. Anyway, it could be possible. In any case, this is my personal interpretation, don't try to reproduce the rela one exactly.








Finally, I must say that was a good project to me, to do something without 1 million different colors in red, grey, yellow, etc, like it is getting fashion nowdays. Ok, it is a resource that can be used sometimes, but we must try to avoid to use the same thing in each model, specially because most of the tanks in WWII were without these amount of coloured patches of bright colors.

Thank you

Mig Jimenez

6/21/2013

EGYPTIAN M109 A2 AFV CLUB

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As maybe many of you know, I love the Egyptian Army. In fact is my favorite subject ever. Doens't matter Six Days War, Yom Kippur or modern ones, it is what make me happy. When I saw for first time the new AFV M109, first thing I thought is to make it under Egyptian army. I searched many pictures of it but where I found the real inspiration was inside a Egyptian propaganda video where I found the M109 in blue platoon colors. Egyptian used bright colors to identificate the units in their maniouvers, such yellow, black, white, orange, red or blue. In this case, the tactical simbols was also blue in combination with the air identificators. It was very original to my eyes, so, I decided to make this versión. There are camouflaged M109s in 3 colors, but I have only 2 bad quality pictures of them, so...the light sand versión was the "one" definitly.
 
The model was build in AFV CLUB HQ in Taipéi, so, I decided to "don't touch" any part of it, just paint it. It was a pity from one side, because the clear parts was necesarly lost because were already glued, like headlights, periscopes or visor.I just remplaced the tracks for another in metal. So, we can say that this kit is totally 100% out of box. Of course I added the license plates, the most important thing in any egyptian vehicle. But of course I must say that the kit is absolutly perfect under my point of view, so...just put in the trash the old Italery kits, because they will look like a plastic toy near to this incredible new kit.
 
The model was enterly painted with AK Interactive acrylics, weathered with the AK enamel products, pigments and oils.
 



 
Frontal headlights was painted by hand and adding X22 from Tamiya and SMOKE. The turret visor is a lense from AK Interactive.



 
The oil drops were painted with AK FRESH ENGINE OIL and a small brush diluting the product with White spirit.

 
Some important aspect in this Egyptian versión is that all tools were painted in black color. Like a curiose thing, note the light blue-green town cable. It can be painted in this color or even PINK!!!
 
 


Few months ago, Mr Tseung, president of AFV Club from Taiwán, offer me his pre-serie kit to be painted by my self. It was a big honour to me so now, it is dedicated to him. I hope you like it Mr Tseung.

 
SPECIAL THANKS TO MILINME.WORDPRESS.COM
 
To take inspiration for my Egyptian M109, I used many photos from this great place: http://milinme.wordpress.com/
Many of the effects in my M109 was based in similar ones on M60s, M113s and many other vehicles.


 
Also, I want to deciate this model to the Egyptian Army from my heart. It is my passion and I have spent hundries of hours just searching and learning from their battles and vehicles.
 
Thank you very much
 
Mig Jimenez
SPAIN

6/12/2013

1/72 th Scale Iraqui T55, painted in 1 day

 
 
Hello friends.
 
Maybe not too many people know that the 1/72 th scale is my real hobby, and I do that just for me, with no step by step potos, and only for my own fun and enjoyment. Unfortunatly I have not too many time for it, so...is rare to find time for finish something. few weeks ago I was able to paint this Little Trumpeter T55 in a modelling meeting, and I was so happy to come back to my favorite scale. Even if it is almost out of box, the model is enought good for enjoy it painting it. I hope you like my Project of "just for fun":
 
Thank you
 
 
 










Mig Jimenez
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12/06/2012

Pasdaran "Army of the Guardians of the Islamic Revolution" Type 69 II C, Iran.

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        After a while in dry dock, I finished one of my favorite subjects, a Type 69 II C of the Hezbollah gorups in Iaran-Iraq war in the 80's. This Type 69 was captured to Iraqui forces and repainted with new numbers and the Hezbollah simbol, together with the red bands of identification. I must give thanks to my friend Charlie Pritchett, an expert in Irani forces and everything related to Iran-Iraq war. He finished this master for Verlinden Productions in cooperation with Andy Taylor (UK). They and more people involved in this neverend project made a great job, and now I was able to enjoy it. I hope you like it. This is so far, my favorite tank in all my life.











 
In 1994 I made my frist Type 69 II C, based in a old kit of an iraqui T55 from Verlinden. In that time I was not able to find too many info and ofc ourse, internet doens't exist. My money to buy books doens't exist!! So, I took a little info form a friend's book. I made many pieces by scratch and with a lot of imagination. If some  one doens't know how was my origen in the modelling carrier...this was the begining of my history. I published this model for for first time in my life in a magazine, 18 years ago, in Todo Modelismo magazine, Spain. This was only the first of more than hundries of articles in 18 different lenguages in the whole world...until now. Almost 2 decades later, I made this tribute to my origen, when I was just a young boy who never thought about to be in the modelling industry. You are dreaming now with to have your own future in the modelling....just do it. Now is time to start because the future is full of surprises and positive things. Good luck!
 
 
 
Thank you
Mig Jimenez
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Some photo references for stowage (just a small example)
 




11/11/2012

Painting a Tiger I 1/24th scale by Mig Jimenez. Part 1

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hello friends. Afetr a long time in silence due my work task, I am able to share with you this home made video where I show how to paint a 1/24th Tiger I from the begining to the ned. of course it will be divided in chapters and this one is about the base color and camouflage. I hope you enjoy it.

Thank you for watching.



Mig Jimenez
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1/10/2012

Tiger I 1/48 Winter camo "Part 5" THE END

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Finally the model is finished. After add the mud and other small effects, it is ready in case we want to make a small diorama.Is very important to see the nice effect made by the acumulated earth in the horizontal surface in the upper hull. It help to create contrast and bring down the excesive white brightness.

Ok, let's go to finish the model. Some steps before. use a graphite pencil to make the metal effect in the MG ring. This useful tool can help us to give a metal look to many details. Keep it sharp.






The different tools was painted using Vallejo colors. Paint some shadows and some highlights to create a volume in the tools and accesories. You can add some dust effects with pigments or washes to adapt the tools to the rest of the weathered vehicle.


The fire extinguiser is really small. But I was able to paint a mini label with a fine brush and vallejo colors. Also I painted it with Dark Yellow, like the old one was remplaced by a new one.


The general look of the tools is good enought for this scale.

now is time to make the dust, earth and mud. This time, I have return to my old technque of pigments, but this time with the new AK pigments, which is a bit different than my old ones. The colors is also differnet. I was tired of the same shades so, the new ones are more ...neutral, less bright. Here you can find the whole range, limited, which means that it is the whole collection, just the basic stuff to avoid get crazy looking among 1 million colors. Now than the actual techniques is not only based in pigments, could be a good alternative these colors if we want to something ocasional, like in my case right now.


You can use the Pigment fixer or just White Spirit to fix the pigments. if you are not sure how will be the look, try frist the White Spirit and later the Fixer Glue. Pigments fixed with White Spirit can be removed more or less easily. Apply the different shades of pigments and then, use a brush with Fixer to humidify the surface.



Try to concentrate the dust around the details and use dar colors for the most hiden areas, around the details or turret, etc...
When it is dry, the look will be like this one. You can repeat the process as much as you want to increase the effect of acumulated earth or dust.



And now we will amke the mud with the actual method, using the enamel products from AK and plaster. Even if the Fresh Mud color is a bit satin, we can add Wet Effect Fluid to the mix to get a more shiny effect in the mud. Use an old brush to make the mix.



Low density mix of mud, this means, with more Enamel color and less plaster, will provide us smaller dots of mud when we make of splashed mud. Use an airbrush to project air over the brush loaded of mud mix. It will generate a nice splash over the front hull.





Use the same mix to apply mud in the tracks.


And after it is dry, apply the Dark Steel pigment to create the metal effect in the external parts fo the links. If it is not enought shiny, you always can mix this powder with Humbrol 11 (silver) and apply the mix with dry brush over the surface.





Well, the model is finished. We can add stowage or more details if we want , but I prefer to leave it clean of stuff to allow see the effects over the model.






























I hope you have enjoy this big step by step. remeber that you have another 4 chapters explaining the whole process since the begining. if you have any doubt or comment, please, feel free to post here. Thank you very much for watching!








Mig Jimenez








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